This is a story of Chau Chau Kang Nilda the peak behind Langza village. Chau Chau means little girl or princess, Kang is a snow-capped mountain, Ni or Nima means sun and Da or Dawa means moon. So this is the princess mountain on which the sun & moon shine.

This story starts years ago. Langza village gets its water from this mountain’s stream so every summer someone was sent to check the stream and remove any obstacles. They also had to watch over the stream through the season.
One day Landup was sent to check the stream. Landup was a lazy man & rather enjoyed playing his lute. So off he went to the base of the mountain. After he had checked the stream he sat down by it to play his lute and was soon lost in its music.

After finishing his piece he opened his eyes to find a beautiful woman standing before him. She stared at him transfixed and slowly said. ‘Landup I love your music would you play for me again.’
Landup couldn’t say no to such an ethereal beauty so he started to play again.

The beauty told him after he finished that she was the Chau Chau Kang Nilda fairy & she would like him to come often and play. Landup agreed and left at the end of the day. From then on he kept trying to get the job to check the stream. Over the season they fell in love and continued to see each other during the summers that followed.

It was during the winter a few years later that a drunk Landup was lazing about. His wife saw this and reminded him of some work he had to do. Drunken Landup got upset and shouted back that he rather be with the Chau Chau Kang Nilda fairy who didn’t ask him to work. To this his wife asked him to stop dreaming but by then Landup had passed out.
In the morning Landup woke up covered in boils & pain. He then remembered what had happened the night before & also remembered that the fairy had asked him never to mention her.

Now he was really worried, the boils marred his handsomeness & he tried everything through winter to be rid of them. But nothing worked.

As soon as summer came & he was no longer house bound he ran to the stream. He played his lute, called out, cried & even screamed but the fairy didn’t come. He never saw her again. And every time he went near the mountain the weather turned nasty & he had to turn back.

Even today when a man tries climbing up Chau Chau Kang Nilda the weather turns nasty. It is said the fairy is still nursing her broken heart and will not let any man come near her.

Credits:
Story – I first read this story in Spiti Through Legend And Lore by Kishore Thukral and then heard variations from locals in Spiti.

The other day while talking to a friend about ChandraTaal, I thought of doing a quick tips piece for people planning to go there; so, here are a few things to keep in mind…

ChandraTaal
If you want to read up on it, check out these links…
Wikipedia
Couldn’t find a good map but did find Anand’s write-up on his trek and a basic map.
Spitian Folklore on ChandraTal

Things to keep in mind when planning…

1. Start early from Manali to ensure that you have a lot of time and that you don’t get stuck on top on Rothang Pass. (Rothang is the honeymoon spot for North India and trust me, here traffic jams can last hours).

2. There are two trekking routes to go to the lake. One starts at Kumzum La and the other at Batal. The Kumzum La route is shorter but more challenging; I recommend doing this stretch when going to the lake and only in good weather. The Batal route is a gentle rolling climb and a nice walk on return. ChandraTaal is about 14 km from Batal. If the roads have been cleared, you can take a jeep for the first 12 km.

3. You can hire a jeep in Manali to take you to Batal and trek from there. On return the jeep can pick you up at Batal too. If you are doing the Kumzum La route, ask the jeep to drop you off at Kumzum La.

4. If you think you need a guide, you can hire one at Manali.

5. Medicine for altitude sickness – If you are doing a quick trip I recommend using Diamox. Start taking it as soon as you arrive in Manali or at least a day before you start the climb. Diamox will help with acclimatising but it makes you want to pee very often so you may want to take it in the morning after breakfast 🙂
Two pods of garlic everyday will also help with AMS. Be careful not to over eat on the garlic as it can also cause ulcers.

6. If you are going in peak season you may find tents there that locals pitch to provide accommodation and food to travellers. However, this is a chance to take and I recommend taking your own gear.

7. Carry good and warm camping gear. You could even hire this in Delhi or Manali. You will need –

a. thick sleeping mat (make sure your mat is of good quality else the cold seeps in)
b. high altitude sleeping bag
c. tent with wind and rain cover

You will need all the insulation you can get; make sure it’s all high altitude stuff and in good condition.

8. Carry warm clothes. Layering is the trick. Wear thermals, then tee and jeans and follow that up with a warm and wind-proof jacket. Gloves will be a requirement along with head gear. Carry extra pairs of socks, wet feet can kill your trip and you will most definitely get your feet wet.

9. Carry your food with you. If you are lucky you may find a food tent but if not… Carry maggi, and ready food packs if you have a stove. Else carry chocolates, biscuits, cheese, dry fruits, jam sachets, etc… They make for some nice picnic food.

10. Don’t set camp near the water; it’s tempting to do that but it gets freezing at night. It’s colder near the water and you are more exposed to wind.

11. While sleeping keep your bags inside tent at the four corners to add weight. There will be strong winds and the tent could do with extra stability.

12. Keep your shoes inside the tent so they’ll stay warm and to keep the smell away carry plastic bags to put shoes in.

Have you been to ChandraTaal, what was your experience? Do you have recommendations for other travellers? Please feel free to add your tips and experiences in the comments. I’d love to hear from you. 🙂

This is a very old story, more than a 100 years ago. There lived a lazy man in the village of Rangrik who was a burden on his wife as he did no work. One day this man decided to go to the Chandra Tal lake as he had heard a lot about it being beautiful. It was far from where he lived & a difficult trek but he thought it would be excellent to escape his wife & her nagging. So he left and walked for many days over mountains & passes. Finally when he was almost worn out he caught sight of the lake. It was indeed beautiful & he was so moved he sat down to play his flute like instrument, & was soon lost in its music.

When he opened his eyes after the number there was a beautiful woman standing before him. She said, “Hello, Gangrup, I am the Chandra Tal Fairy. Your music drew me here. I have fallen in love with you, will you come & live with me in my kingdom. I will love you & keep you happy, if you will play for me & love me.”

So Gangrup went with her to her underwater kingdom & they were very happy there through summer. Then as winter came the fairy asked Gangrup to go back home. He was unhappy & said he didn’t want to go as he would miss her. But she said he would have to go, but he could come back next summer. She would miss him too & await his return. But she warned him not to tell anyone about them else they would never be able to be together again.

Gangrups family was overjoyed to see him as they had thought he had died on the way when he did not return for months. Winter set in and Gangrup drank and slept as always, doing nothing else. One day when he was really drunk his wife was nagging him about some work she wanted done. He turned to her & said: “Shut up woman, don’t nag me else I will go away to the ChandraTal fairy. She loves me.” So saying he downed his drink & passed out.

The next morning he remembered what had happened & started to cry. Everyone was concerned & kept asking him what happened but he just kept wailing. He passed the rest of the winter in mad grief and as soon as summer set in he left for the lake.

As soon as he got there he took out his flute & started to play. Soon enough the fairy emerged. She said: “I have just come to say good bye Gangrup. You broke my heart.” So saying she left. Gangrup fell to his knees & called after her crying. A while later she emerged holding a bundle. Gangrup was overjoyed thinking she had forgiven him. But she said “This is our daughter, born of our love, take her back with you.” So saying she handled him the bundle & left.

Gangrup looked down at his daughter & gasped. She was the ugliest thing he had set eyes on, covered in warts and boils & she was very ill. He didn’t want to touch her but then filial love won & he took her along. However she died on the way. Broken hearted Gangrup took her all the way home.

His family was stunned when he told them she was his daughter from the ChandraTal fairy. He buried her with all ceremony & built a memorial for her in the house.

From then on his families luck changed and they became rich. After all, the little girl was also a Nortin (fairy).

His line is still alive today though they have moved to a new house (the old house still stands in ruins). They moved the memorial to the new house too & it can be still seen today.

Credits:
Photos – Harish and Easha
Story – I first read this story in Spiti Through Legend And Lore by Kishore Thukral.

A few weeks back I travelled to Auroville. The trip had multiple purposes – I wanted to explore the possibilities of Auroville and I wanted to take a break from work too. So off I went on a split second decision to meet my friend Jos who was staying there for a bit.

The trip was great; I had a good drive down with Siva and Raji, met some lovely people and learnt a lot. Its been a while since I did a travel log and don’t want this to be long, so I’ll break up this post into sections and try to make it pictorial. If you want any specific details, please feel free to ask.

Drive Down

On a wim when I decided to go to Auroville, I checked with Siva if he was driving to Pondicherry to meet his family. He was; so I decided to go along for the drive. On 19th Sept 09 we started at 3:30am and on the way we picked up Raji at Chennai airport (she flew in from Mumbai). Next stop Tiger Caves on ECR (East Coast Road) just after Mahabalipuram.



This is some really old architecture. What I found amazing was the similarity with the Spinx in Egypt.
Do you also see the dolphin rock and the whale?

(One reference to these stone works says they were constructed by Pallavas. Mahabalipuram about 60kms from Chennai was the port city of the Pallavas during 7th – 9th century)

After that I got off at the Auroville turn-off and Siva and Raji headed into town towards home. I made my way into Auroville; I had to find Evergreen Community where I was to meet Natasha and Dave and wait for Jos to return from a meeting.

The Stay

Auroville is a community set up by the Mother (the spiritual partner of Sri Aurobindu). It is a space where the peaceful people of the world can live together is harmony. You can read up more on Auroville on their website and on Wiki.

I walked into Evergreen and surprisingly met Jos (pronounced Yos) at the gate. Jos walked me in and introduced me to Natasha, Dave, Zea and Jasmine – my hosts. I would be staying at Amir and Tamar’s home though, house-sitting for them while they went to Kodaikanal with their two kids.







(From left) Zea, Natasha (From right) Jasmine, Me, Jos






I had a very interesting three days. I visited the Matrimandir, saw quite a bit of the work being done and ate a lot at the Solar Kitchen. Almost all the time I was talking and discussing ideas with Jos, Natasha, Dave and everyone else I met.

I got there on a Saturday afternoon which I mostly spent reading and talking. Sunday morning was spent with the family playing Pictionary and understanding a little more about the workings of Auroville. I was to hire a moped but nothing was available so I borrowed Dave’s cycle and off we went to lunch at the Solar Kitchen (so called because all the food is cooked with solar energy). After that I headed into town to book my return ticket. The rest of the evening was spent talking and we also watched a movie ‘Home’.

Monday saw me head to the Aurore office to speak to Rishi and Hemant. I wanted to understand the work they did with renewable energy. It was an interesting time spent understanding the different projects they ran. Want to know more check out their website.

After lunch again at the Solar Kitchen, Jos and I headed to watch a movie in the late afternoon. ‘The Climate Game and the World’s Poor’ a documentary by UNESCO about how the developed countries have cause climate change but the poor countries like Bangladesh, Bolivia, Kenya and Vietnam will pay the price. It questioned how these rich developed countries would compensate the ones suffering. It’s interesting and I recommend you watch it.

After the movie all those who were there sat and discussed it. That I saw in that circle was that even after watching a movie where it was made clear who was to blame, people thought it was the under-developed countries that had to change their lifestyle. Very few saw that the developed countries need to make drastic changes, especially the US.

Post movie Jos and I had dinner at the Solar Café (a lovely vegetable soup and toast) before heading to the Community Center for a concert. The theme was the world, its people and saving it. The songs were from all over the world and it was fun to listen and watch. Adults and children danced away together. Kids in Auroville are treated as adults. They are not mollycoddled or sweet talked to. They can stay up late for concerts, etc. (this helps parents have a social life) and they interact with adults with child-like maturity.

Tuesday saw me head to the Matrimandir for a short tour and some meditation in the morning. We had lunch at Aurelec and spent a lot of time there talking. Then we cycled back to attend the inauguration of the Auroville Film Festival.

Zea (center) had made a short film that was a part of the festival.

After the festival we headed to the Pizzeria (New Creation Corner) for some dinner. Zea, Jos and I were on cycles, so Natasha and Jasmine went ahead on the motorbike while we took the inner trails with Zea leading. Zea ‘Butterfly’ or my barefoot butterfly knew those routes in the dark. The trails two feet wide wound about through the forest that Auroville is today and she could see in the dark. Jos had a small headlamp and I had a pen torch. Using the pen torch as a guide light I blindly followed Zea. This was the most fun thing I had done in a long time. My heart was beating fast and the adrenaline rush was heady as I almost fell and almost ran into many trees and bushes. Please note though that I did not fall or run into a bush.

By the time I reached the Pizzeria I was on a high and completely in awe of Zea, who lived the wild carefree life. Also I was very proud of myself, not only had I survived the jungle trails at night but had cycled about 15km everyday for three days. That’s something for lazy me.

Dinner done we headed back home to have some desert before I was to leave to catch the night bus back to Bangalore.

A special thank you to Natasha, Dave, Zea and Jasmine for being such wonderful warm people. Thank you Amir and Tamar to letting me stay and getting a real feel of an Aurovillian house. And Jos, words aren’t enough to say thank you for all you did. : )

The following parts will be about the work I saw being done in Auroville, insects and animals, the houses and the Matrimandir. So hang in there : )